![background](/_astro/last.IY4uCOPK_cOK9m.webp)
Shoe Making: Part One - Making a Pattern
I’ve been interested in shoemaking for some time, especially after gaining experience in leatherwork and crafting simple wallets. Recently, I purchased some shoe lasts from Alibaba and decided it’s time to put them to use. The lasts I chose are designed in a “barefoot” style, featuring a wider toe box that allows for more natural toe movement. My initial project will be to create a basic Desert/Chukka Boot, opting for a simple and classic design as a starting point.
My goal is to complete the project using a minimal set of tools to minimize costs, so I will be hand-stitching and maintaining simplicity in the process. To begin, I intend to create just one shoe to test out a pattern, using affordable leather offcuts I purchased from eBay. If I am satisfied with the pattern and the outcome, I then plan to acquire higher-quality leather and attach soles. Throughout the process, I will document as much as possible, enabling others to follow along and craft their own boots.
![barefoot shoe last](/_astro/last.IY4uCOPK_17Qc7j.webp)
The image above shows the barefoot shoe last that I’ll be using for this project.
To begin making the pattern, I covered the last with masking tape. I applied several layers, alternating the direction of the tape with each layer and ensuring overlap within each layer. I also extended the tape across the sole to create a pattern for that part as well.
![shoe last covered in marking tape](/_astro/taped.Oh1cukDA_1x0o7F.webp)
The image above displays the last completely covered in tape, and at this point, I was ready to mark out the pattern on the masking tape. As I mentioned earlier, I’m aiming for a simple design, so I kept it straightforward and sought inspiration from examples online. Although not shown in the picture, I also drew a line for a seam at the back of the shoe and around the edge of the sole to guide me during the cutting process.
![shoe last with pattern marked](/_astro/taped_and_marked.wD4hbk0N_Z1NcGX6.webp)
This image shows the last marked with the pattern I created before starting the cutting process.
![craft knife](/_astro/knife.ERG1M-KE_2rlj9s.webp)
Following that, I carefully cut along the lines marked with a black marker pen using a craft knife. This allowed me to peel the tape off the last, resulting in four pieces: two sides, a sole, and the vamp.
![shoe making patterns](/_astro/patterns.7faWn3Il_2ulnAm.webp)
Next, I affixed the masking tape pieces onto a piece of cardboard. For the toe section, I had to make some relief cuts in the masking tape to allow it to flatten out properly. To allocate additional material for stitching the shoe together, I used the width of a small ruler as a guide on the relevant pieces. I may have allowed for more excess than necessary, but it can be trimmed if it becomes cumbersome and will definitely be trimmed when the shoe is being stitched together.
![the cut out pattern templates](/_astro/cut_out_patterns.9af22ij6_RNXNY.webp)
I proceeded to cut along the lines, which left me with my patterns. The next step will be to transfer these patterns onto leather and cut them out.